Surfing gets your soul, once you feel the wave lift you up and thrust you forward you begin to realise how powerful but beautiful mother nature is and how vast the universe really is, this cant help but smile on your face in absolute awe of how beautiful it is to have participated in life!
Sliding a wave removes our brains out of the ordinary and slips us into the extra ordinary of being there now!! No more worries about mortgages or strife of being poor or rich. When you enter the domain of an ocean cylinder, that moment, those split seconds belong to the Zen part of just being. Period. ️.
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